Are we sitting comfortably? The first part of Edinburgh’s sewage history was the Thread About the East Foul Burn and the Irrigated Meadows. Let us now turn to Chapter 2 of that story; the drainage and sewage problems of Victorian Edinburgh and how to fix them.

Our story starts with a little revision of the topography of the city; without it what follows just doesn’t make sense for the simple and important reason that sewage will only run downhill. So here is a topographically coloured map of central Edinburgh. White is highest, then red, orange, yellow, green, light blue; and then dark blue is lowest. Simple physics dictates that a liquid – and therefore sewage – will flow downhill from the red areas via the other colours of the rainbow to dark blue – and cannot go the other way. It will continue to do so until it either collects somewhere on the way from where it cannot escape, or finds an outflow to the sea. The dark blue channel in the top left is the Water of Leith valley. The Castle Rock and long tail of the High Street and Canongate can be seen in the middle. Calton Hill to the top and Arthur’s Seat is the red and white promontory on the right.

And here is a 1784 town plan overlaid on that. The First New Town has only just really begun to be built; the black blocks show the completed buildings and most are just plans at this point, and there is very little built to the north of George Street, so the starting point of what is happening to Edinburgh’s sewage during this time is that little of it is draining away towards the north and the Water of Leith.

No, the vast majority from old Edinburgh (and the southern part of the First New Town) ends up draining east (orange) into what is known as the East Foul Burn. The Southside is relatively lightly populated and its waste (yellow) cannot proceed east but instead goes west into the Boroughloch (now drained as The Meadows), where it slowly winds its way west into the Water of Leith via the Lochrin Burn. The north part of the First New Town (pink) has a relatively small contribution to make towards the city’s waste and goes downhill and north to the Water of Leith by one route or another.

Up until the mid-late 18th century, it is the orange lines where most of the waste is; just look at the density (black) of housing in the Old Town, Canongate and Grassmarket and then reflect that most of it is 4 or 5 storeys tall or more! Layers and layers of people living cheek-by-jowl and not a flushing toilet or underground sewer to share amongst them. Notice also that much less of the sewage heads into the Nor’ Loch than you might expect from the popular tale of it being the city’s sewer (the Nor’ Loch is that ancient, man made loch to the north of the castle that was part of the city’s defences, and while it was foul and polluted it was not the main sewer).

At this point most of the city’s sewage is simply cast directly from pisspot and chamber pot into the simple gutters that ran down the closes, where it mixed and collected with all the animal dung, food waste and industrial detritus of life and found its way into open sewers . These were little more than ditches, covered with stone capping slabs in places to allow them to be crossed, and of which there were 3 principal routes:

1. The first is into the Nor’ Loch valley, via the North Back of Canongate (Calton Road) and Abbeyhill
2. The second is via the Cowgate and South Back of Canongate (Holyrood Road) and into the King’s Park and joins with number 1 near the Clockmill House in the park
3. The third is from the Southside and the St. Leonard’s and Dumbiedykes areas where it enters the King’s Park and then joins with number 2

The flow was then east towards the Firth of Forth.

The route to the Firth of Forth via the East Foul Burn was the remarkable piece of aquatic engineering of the Irrigated Meadows. In a time before artificial fertilisers, human as well as animal manure was vitally important for food production. These meadows, constantly replenished by controlled inundation by fertilising sewage, could grow multiple crops of fodder each year which fed the city’s horses and dairy cows. The important point being made here is that the sewage system of the city back then was much more complicated and managed than we might give it credit for – as soon as the waste left the centre of population – but it was nothing to do with public health and everything to do with the practicalities and economics of food production. And private profit for the landowners!

This system was progressively sent underground into proper sewers through the 19th century. The irrigated meadow system persisted right up to the 1920s when it was bypassed by a proper sewer, the land drained and given over to council and bungalow housing estates.

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Jumping through time now to round about 1850, there has been a fairly obvious change to the old system as a large part of the growing city is no longer in the catchment of the East Foul Burn system (orange) but now the Water of Leith (yellow). And to there it did flow in great abundance!

The Water of Leith was far less suited to being a sewer than the East Foul Burn as its flow was highly seasonal (far more so than it is now since compensation reservoirs were built in the 19th century to maintain the water level and flow in the river for industry). During the periods of little to no flow the sewage would collect and gather and fester. Additionally, this river was tapped by numerous mill lades – large and small – and the slower water flowing through these meant that the sewage would settle out of the water, silting up the lades and collecting behind the weirs, “by the middle of the 19th century the condition of this river had seriously deteriorated“. But this was a nuisance mainly of the sight and smell of raw sewage; it was not until the Second Cholera Epidemic of 1848-1849 that it was finally proved and widely understood that water polluted by sewage had a pivotal role in spreading disease.

Not only do you have the raw sewage of the New Town and the expanding north of Edinburgh carried directly into the Water of Leith, the dense industry along the route; below Coltbridge at Roseburn there was milling, distilling, tanning, papermaking, soapmaking, chemical works, gas works and more. All of these were dumping their waste and by products straight into the river, from where they flowed directly to the town of Leith. As the 19th century wore on, these industries began to use progressively less water for power as steam took over, but instead used it for new processes such as cooling steam engines and flushing waste away – neither of which required the maintenance expense of headwater lades, many of which simply silted up with sewage from lack of use.

Something had to be don; but it was not clear specifically what. Industry was fairly happy so long as the river flowed, and it was kept flowing by a series of “compensation reservoirs” in the Pentland Hills which kept up a reliable supply of water in the upper reaches of the Water of Leith. Reformers and residents desired a change to clean up the river and their environment. This was stymied by interminable jurisdiction conflicts; there was no single authority or jurisdiction along the river and there were long standing legal rights for industries to extract water and fill their lades.

The first meaningful effort for change was made in 1853 by the Edinburgh Police Commission (the “Police” back then were mainly concerned in handling the city lighting, cleansing, sanitation, weights and measures, some taxation etc. Law enforcement was something they did on the side). The Police engaged consulting engineers to look at the state of the lower river (beyond Coltbridge / north of Roseburn), who surveyed it carefully and came to the logical conclusion that it was full of shit.

The engineers’ report made 2 simple reconsiderations;

1. Clear the river bed of as many unnecessary obstructions where sewage accumulated (weirs and lades) as possible
2. Build an “interceptor sewer“, that is one that intercepted all the existing sewer outflows discharging into the river, collected their output, and made sure they never found their way into the river

The Police Commissioners accepted the report without hesitation and in 1854 the Edinburgh Police Amendment Act was passed. Part 1 of the scheme was implemented with much struggle from reluctant and recalcitrant mill and land owners, but Part 2 came to nothing. The success of Part 1 helped Edinburgh, as it assisted in the flow of raw sewage down the river, but it did nothingfor poor old Leith. As the river slowed in the basin of the Port of Leith the sediment and suspended sewage settled out of the water and silted up the bed. By 1855 this was causing the Leith Dock Commissioners a serious problem. They complained that the Water of Leith now “flushed so well that a foot of mud and solid filth had been deposited… this created such a noxious and offensive effluvium and stench, as to be exceedingly prejudicial to the health of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood“. Leith began to lobby Edinburgh for a joint solution to the problem; namely resurrecting the plan for the unbuilt interceptor sewer, and expanding it to catch the outflow of some 180 drains, constituting the whole north and west of Edinburgh and most of Leith.

A scheme for the sewers was drawn up by the finest consulting engineers the city had to offer; Thomas and David Stevenson (of the “Lighthouse” dynasty).

The city was further assisted by another Stevenson (no relation); a son of Glasgow and analytical chemist called Stevenson Macadam, who undertook the first chemical analysis of the contents of the river. Coincidentally he was the consultant chemist to the Northern Lighthouse Board for whom the Stevenson brothers were the principal engineers. Macadam’s work proved that although there was industrial waste in the river north of Roseburn, there was no “putrefaction” as a result, but just north of Roseburn where the West Foul Burn and city’s sewers began to enter it, “the quality deteriorated drastically“. Macadam didn’t mince his words. The river was receiving the raw sewage of “100,000 people and was charged with fecal matter of the most disgusting and abominable character“. It collected in “hot-beds of decomposing filth from which abundantly offensive gases were diffused“.

It took about 2 years of legal and political wrangling between Edinburgh and Leith to agree who should be liable for paying for what (it turned out that Edinburgh wasn’t legally liable for its own shit or the problems it caused once it entered the Water of Leith). It took the intervention of the Lord Justice-General (a senior Scottish judge) to put the legal liability to one side and he adjudicated that Edinburgh should be paying for what to do with its own waste, not Leith, where it had ended up. Despite opposition from mill owners and the usual nay sayers of local politics – averse to any change that they didn’t think impacted them – the Edinburgh and Leith Sewerage Act for the construction of the interceptor sewer was passed in 1864.

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The next part of this story shall look at cleaning up the Water of Leith and the building of the interceptor sewers.

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